Serves 4

If your fillets are less than one and one-half inches thick, decrease the grilling time by roughly thirty seconds per side. If using a gas grill, heat it for ten minutes and then grill the salmon over direct heat for four to five minutes per side. To test fillets for doneness, either peek into the salmon with the tip of a small knife as described below or remove the salmon from the grill and squeeze both sides of the fillet gently with your fingertips (raw salmon is squishy; medium-rare salmon is firm, but not hard).

Mustard Glaze

• 2 T dry mustard
• 2 T granulated sugar
• 2 t water

Grilled Salmon

• vegetable oil for grill grate

• 4 salmon filets (center-cut), each 6 to 7 oz & 1 1/2 inch thick

• Mix dry mustard, sugar & water together to make a thick paste. Set aside.

• Ignite enough charcoal briquettes or hardwood charcoal to fill slightly less than two shoeboxes, and burn until completely covered with thin coating light gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes. Spread coals in single layer to make medium-hot fire (judge by holding outstretched hand 5 inches above coals for 4 seconds; if you cannot make it the full 4 seconds, fire is too hot). Position grill grate over fire and rub cooking area of grate with oil-dipped paper towel wad.

• Generously sprinkle each side of fillets with salt and pepper. Spread mustard mixture over flesh side of fillets. Place fillets in an oiled grill basket, if you like. Place fillets skin side down on grill grate; grill until skin shrinks and separates from flesh and turns black, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip fillets gently with long-handled tongs or spatula; grill until fillets are opaque throughout, yet translucent at very center when checked with point of paring knife, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to serving platter, drizzle with olive oil, and serve.